Author: Hasna Moumane
When it comes to skincare, the industry has made strides in many areas, but there’s still a glaring gap when it comes to inclusivity, especially for those with darker skin tones. From ads and packaging to beauty campaigns and magazine covers, the underrepresentation of non-white faces remains evident. This issue isn’t just limited to makeup shades; even in the "clean beauty" and wellness spaces, we see a system built on white privilege, which often overlooks the unique needs of those with melanin-rich skin.
Let's explore the differences between darker and lighter skin tones and the specific skincare concerns for people of color.
The Role of Melanin
The most obvious difference between darker and lighter skin tones is melanin dispersion. Melanin, produced by melanocytes, gives our skin its color, and the more melanocytes your skin has, the darker your complexion. However, melanin isn't just about appearance, it also affects how your skin responds to various factors like UV radiation, aging, and wound healing.
Transepidermal Water Loss & Skin Barrier Disruption
People with darker skin tones may experience more transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is when moisture evaporates from the skin, leading to dryness and rough texture. This is due to lower levels of ceramides (lipid molecules) in the stratum corneum (the skin’s outermost layer). To combat this, it’s crucial to choose moisturisers that focus on barrier repair, and look for those containing natural moisturising factors.
Sun Protection: SPF for Darker Skin
There’s a common misconception that people with darker skin tones don’t need to wear sunscreen. While melanin offers some protection from UV rays, equivalent to a natural SPF of around 13.3 compared to 3.4 in lighter skin - it is by no means a substitute for sunscreen. UV exposure can still damage darker skin, leading to premature aging, skin cancer, and pigmentation issues. Daily SPF is non-negotiable for everyone, regardless of skin tone.
Collagen Overproduction & Hyperpigmentation
Another common concern for those with darker skin tones is an overproduction of collagen during the healing process. This can lead to raised scars, also known as keloids. Additionally, darker skin is more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). After a wound, acne, or irritation, the skin may develop dark spots or discoloration, which can linger long after the initial issue has healed. PIH can be more persistent in darker skin tones, and using products containing ingredients like vitamin C, can help brighten and even out the skin tone.
The Road Ahead: True Inclusivity in Skincare
While the industry is making slow progress, there’s still a long way to go in creating skincare products and conversations that cater to everyone. It’s important for brands to not only diversify their product offerings but also to represent a wide range of skin tones in their marketing. The skincare needs of people with darker skin tones deserve attention, support, and thoughtful solutions.